In the previous article, “The Three Most Basics A Beginner Photographer Should Know”, there are graphics and explanations on Aperture, Shutter Speed, and Film Speed/ISO scale. In this article, I would like to share more depth about them. All three are represented by numbers, in the photography world, the interval from one number to another is called “stop.” Either stop up (increment) or stop down (decrement), for example, Aperture of f/5.6 to f/4 is one stop up, and f/5.6 to f/8 is one stop down. The same thing happens with Shutter Speed and Film Speed/ISO. Shutter Speed 1/125 to 1/250 is one stop up, and 1/125 to 1/60 is one stop down. While for Film Speed/ISO 200 to 100 is one stop down, and 200 to 400 is one stop up. Just remember avoiding confusion, “up” and “down” is about the [amount, time and sensitivity] light goes into the film plane [in film photography] or digital sensor [in digital photography], NOT about the numbers.
There are terms in film photography, push and pull. The term of “push” is used when taking pictures using ISO 400, but the setting in the camera is set to 800 known as “push one stop.” The reverse situation is when ISO 400 is set as ISO 200 A.K.A. “pull one stop.” Why old-school photographers do that, push or pull the Film Speed? A couple of answers to it, in my experience, some photographers during an important moment ran out the preferred film stock on hand. The only film stock in hand was ISO 400 while the shooting took place was in a music concert where the light is low and inconsistent. The ideal ISO for that situation let’s say ISO 1600. So, the photographer set (push) the ISO to 1600 in the camera while using ISO 400. In the development process, the photographer or the lab developed the film at ISO 1600. For the result, the film was developed at ISO 1600 produces more noise, maybe a bit more noise than the genuine ISO 1600. However, the result gave an artistic felling, that is another reason.
Although in all three (Aperture, Shutter Speed, and Film Speed/ISO) if we look closely from one number to the second next number exactly doubled multiplication. In the most common lenses, the biggest aperture is f/1.4 stands next to f/2, and the following number is f/2.8 which is exactly the f/1.4 times two. The number f/2.8 stands next to f/4, and the next after f/4 is f/5.6 which is exactly f/2.8 times two. Do you get the idea?
In digital photography, the Aperture has more increments and decrements than in film photography. Thanks to technology advancements, digital cameras (DSLRs) have increments up to 1/4 stop. Not only the Aperture has more increments in stops, Shutter Speed and Film Speed/ISO have them as well. All offer more creative freedom to photographers to explore the making of stunning photos. Not all DSLRs is created equal, some have more capabilities beyond others, however, the basic principles are the same across the platform.
CALIBRATING THE EXPOSURE READINGS
As I have mentioned earlier, three basics (Aperture, Shutter Speed and FilmSpeed/ISO) must correspond in conjunction to obtain a proper exposure. Prior to setting the Shutter Speed or Aperture, Film Speed/ISO must be preset, and White Balance must be assigned for a DSLR. Let’s say, taking pictures in the outdoors with suitable light during the day, ISO at 100 is advisable. White Balance is either set in Auto While Balance or Daylight (when setting White Balance to Daylight, always remember to check when the location changes between indoor or outdoor, and cloudy or nighttime). Occasionally, I have forgotten to change the White Balance setting when changing locations, although I always can fix the white balance when I shoot in RAW using the photo software i.e. Adobe RAW or Adobe Lightroom, I always set my White Balance in Auto White Balance (AWB). Taking from my experience, Auto White Balance is not entirely accurate, but it is still preferable to set the white balance at the Tungsten setting while shooting Daylight.
Note: RAW files acronyms: CRW or CR2 for Canon, NEF for Nikon, ARW for Sony, RAF for Fuji, etc.
White Balance setting in every DSLR camera is virtually similar with some probable slight variants: AWB (Auto White Balance), Daylight (5600K), Shadow/Shade (7000K), Cloudy (6000K), Tungsten (3200K), Fluorescent (4000K), Flash (5500K), Custom White Balance (where you set your own preference to the white point of reference). Through a convention, Kelvin degree is used to measure the color temperature in photography and beyond. The daylight is between 5000K – 5600K where the white looks white.
As I mentioned in the article “The Three Most Basics A Beginner Photographer Should Know” film cameras have no white balance feature, the white balance in film photography is set through film type. Digital cameras use image sensors like video cameras hence the white balance feature is a helpful tool to balance the grayscale. White Balance setting might be obsolete might be not, one always can fix the white balance through the advancement of photo software. There are arguments say Auto White Balance also varies from one camera brand to another, as each brand calculates the white balance formula to compensate the light ambiance differently.
SHUTTER SPEED PRIORITY
Once the ISO and White Balance are set, I move to Aperture or Shutter Speed. Which one, it depends on what I want to shoot. If I want to be sure that my kids’ pictures in the outdoors are always in focus during their activities, I go with Shutter Speed Priority (“Tv” in my Canons, “S” in Nikon, Sony, and others). Having the Shutter Speed priority guarantees the pictures I take are always in focus. What Shutter Speed I set? Assuming, above 1/125 suffices to answer the challenge, I always can go with faster Shutter Speed if I see the need arises once my kids go Flash or Superman fast.
Talking about Shutter Speed, one thing I need to note is that the camera focal length comes into consideration. The longer the focal length of a lens, the faster Shutter Speed is needed to achieve the steadiness for our hands to manage the camera weight while taking pictures. Unless a tripod is in use, the Shutter Speed number is suggested no less than the focal length of the lens. For example, using 105mm lens shutter speed must be 1/105 or faster to curb camera shake during a handheld shooting. This technique has been practiced in general as a cardinal rule on the reciprocity between shutter speed and lens focal length.
After Shutter Speed priority (“Tv” or “S”) is selected, Aperture will adjust itself following the preset Shutter Speed for the right exposure. The same happens when Aperture priority (“A”) is selected, Shutter Speed will adjust to follow the preset Aperture for the right exposure (Exposure (Exp) points at “0”). Let’s take it into a hypothetical practice, refer to the tables below:
For each change of the Shutter Speed (in Tv preset), the Aperture setting changes accordingly. The table shows from Shutter Speed Priority (Tv) 1/125 at f/8 when the Tv changes to 1/60 the Aperture adjusts to f/11. When the Tv changes to 1/250 the Aperture adjusts to f/5.6, and so on. The same principle happens when Aperture Priority is selected and the Shutter Speed follows suit. Knowing this principle helps when we choose to learn the full Manual mode. In that case, always mind the exposure (EXP) points at “0”.
APERTURE PRIORITY
In Aperture priority, Shutter Speed self adjusts to compensate the proper exposure following Aperture [and Film Speed]. The reason we set the Aperture priority is to control the depth of field and set a certain opening for the light in an attempt to record images. A bigger opening in the aperture produces a shallow depth of field and allows the subject stands out from the foreground and the background. Arguably, prime lenses do better than zoom lenses when it comes to the maximum aperture.
Setting Aperture as the priority is switching to “A” on the dial mode in the camera. Stopping up or down the Aperture to our liking for the desired depth of field will automatically adjust Shutter Speed for the proper exposure. When we put the Aperture at f/5.6 and the Shutter Speed adjusts to 1/60, but when we set 2 stops up the Aperture to f/2.8, the Shutter Speed will automatically go 2 stops down from 1/60 to 1/250.
FULLY MANUAL MODE
There was a time when I got baffled then I questioned myself on why I should go the full manual mode while I can prioritize one of two. It is true when we go full manual mode; it slows us down than using the priority modes. Since, we need to take control of both, Aperture and Shutter Speed, the full manual mode is a must. The full manual mode might not be ideal during time-critical moment shoots like documenting important events. Nonetheless, the full manual mode offers total control in the creative process, furthermore, it prevents the misreading on the subject that has different contrast and exposure. The Full manual mode also enables more control to a photographer to take time-lapse photography. Like some say, the creativity in photography goes beyond the full manual mode. Some images cannot be produced without the full manual mode like an image with a drastic range of contrast and exposure.
The Full manual mode offers the opportunity to a photographer to control Aperture, Shutter Speed, Exposure Value, Depth of Field, Focal Point, Focus, and more. The advantages cannot be offered by the priority settings, especially the Auto Mode feature. It takes practice to use the full manual mode. The priority settings are a baby step to mastery.
Leave a Reply